Feb 15 2009

Cam Driven Fuel Pump (CDFP) Internals Install

Published by at 9:34 pm under Mazda Tutorials

Tools Needed:

17 MM / 19 MM Open Ended Wrench

10 MM Socket

18 MM Deep Well Socket

E8 Reverse Torx Socket – Can be bought individually @ advanced auto parts

Small Flat-Head Screwdriver

1 Zip Tie

Time Needed: 40 Min – 1 Hr

Difficulty: 3 / 10

Prerequisite: Turbo Inlet / Battery can be removed to make this easier.


This is a pretty easy install so don’t be intimidated by it. To start off you will need make sure to let your car sit for a while (Cold) so you can pull the fuel lines without spilling tons of fuel everywhere. Will also need to pull your intercooler cover off (if applicable). You can also pull a relay for the fuel pump but I found this to be unnecessary. I started by removing the fuel lines on the top. These are held on by plastic clips. A square neon yellow one and the other is held on by a blue clip. The yellow one needs to be completely removed to pull the fuel line off. The Blue one just has to be released enough to pull it off. To get them off I used a small screw driver and pulled the clips apart. Pictures below to show what the clips look like and how they attach.

Once you get the lines off you to make it easier I removed the 2 10 MM Bolts that hold the lines next to the fuel pump in. This will make it easier to get to the other parts of the pump. While you have your socket out removed the reverse torx bolts that hold the pump in place. There are 3 of them 2 on the top and one on the bottom. The one on the bottom is closer to the engine/passenger side.

Next you need to remove the feed line from the bottom of the pump. Put your zip tie under the bolt so it doesn’t get away after you release it. Then take your 17 MM and 19 MM wrenches and put the 17 on the inlet bolt that goes into the pump. The 19 goes on the main bolt loosen and let slide down. You can now remove the pump. Pull straight back and out.

Once out you will need to secure the pump in a vice of some kind. Then use your 18 MM deep well to remove the plunger you may need a breaker bar.

Once out you can push the plunger out through the bottom to remove.

You can see the difference in the holes of the pump as the new one is bigger.

Insert new rod and cylinder as shown. With the straight line cuts to the bottom.

Now take the 2 shim pieces and place in the lock. This will lock the top when the spring pushes the plunger up.

Once assembled place in gas and let sit for a few min. I shook mine around after a few min to make sure any contaminates were gone.

All that is left now is place the plunger back into the fuel pump body. Then re-install to the car. Once re-mounted re-connect your bottom fuel line first. Make sure that the 17 MM DOES NOT MOVE when Tightening the bolt at the bottom of the pump. Tighten with finger first as not to cross thread. Cut the zip tie, re connect the other 2 lines, Connect the electrical plug and your all set. Also don’t forget to replace the 2 10 MM bolts on the bracket that holds the wires.

Before starting your car. Hold the GAS TO THE FLOOR and attempt to start this will prevent the engine from starting but will re-pressurize the lines.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

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