First I would like to announce that CP-E has joined as a Sponsor. I have a StandBack and PNP harness on the way. Once I get these I will have a full exclusive install and write up with lots of pictures etc. Also I didn’t get the last 2 write-ups done yesterday and hope to have them knocked out by tomorrow. I will also be including a 3rd new tutorial for installing Stainless Steel brake lines as well as bleeding your brakes.

-Krystm

So 4 of 6 Tutorials are done just have to finish updating the index and forums. They are the long awaited CAI Install, Oil Change, Rear Camber Install and Oil Catch Can Install. Check the tutorials page for links to them. Should have the other 2 up sometime later today as well which include TWM Knob Install and Alarm Install.

-Krystm

Tools Required:

17 MM Socket

17 MM Ratcheting Wrench (used if cannot get in with socket)

17 MM Wrench (used if cannot get in with ratchet or socket)

15 Torx

Allen Key for Pinch Bolt

Jack / Stands

Difficulty: 4 / 10

Time Required: 1-2 Hrs

Install:

Buy them here: Click Here (These are sold indivudially)

This install has been exclusively written for and use with THMotorsports.com These SPC Adjustable Rear Camber Arms are very well built and the install is pretty easy to do with the exception of the Passenger side. This tutorial is done without removing the cross member so it does make some more work but it is entirely possible to do. The drivers side will take about 20 min that includes jacking up the car and removing the tire.

Here are the Adjustable Rear Camber Arms. These are much bigger then I thought they would be but here are some pics so you can compare.

Driver’s Side:
Jack up the car and remove the tire the first 17 MM that you need to remove is here.

Follow the camber arm up to find the 2nd 17 MM that you need to remove.

Compared once off.

Now re install be sure that the side (non adjustable side) labeled “IN” is in towards the center of the car.

Passenger Side:
Now this is the side that will take the most amount of time as the limited amount of space you have to work with. First you need to remove the Torx 15 screws out of the box mounted to the plate. (These are the hardest things to re install just warning you now) Once removed you can push it back and bend the plate in and get the bolt out. Sounds easy here but it is a HUGE PITA. Once you get that bolt back in bend the plate back and re install the Torx screws.

Once you have them bolted back in you can adjust. These are not the easiest things to adjust and will most likely require removing the wheel to get in there to adjust them. The big nut at the end is used to lock against the smaller reverse threaded bolt for fine adjusting. Once you find where you like them lock the location using the pinch bolt which is an allen key and (10 MM I believe)

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Pre-Requisite: Front Bumper Removal

Tools Required:

Philips Screw Driver

Flat Head Screw Driver

10 MM Socket

Difficulty: 3 / 10

Time Required: 30-60 Min

Install:

This is one of the most beneficial upgrades that you can do to your car. Not only does it improve performance and gas mileage. It makes the car sound so much more alive. The install on this is pretty easy but does require some work so lets get to it.

This install while done on a NA Mazda the Speed is not really any different with the exception of where the pipe goes.

Once you have your front bumper off remove the air tunnel to the battery box.

Remove the MAF Sensor be VERY CAREFUL with this sensor.

Once removed remove the breather hose. In most stock cases you will have a 90 degree piece with blue plastic at the bottom. Just pinch the blue clips and remove. Also remove the 10 MM bolt that holds the sensor on the top of the air box.

Loosen the clamp that holds the air box to the throttle body.

Now remove the clamps that hold the top of the air box on and pull up to remove the top part of the air box.

Now remove the bottom of the air box. This pulls straight up. it does connect in place in rubber pins but pull it up and will come right out.

To remove the bottom part of the air box there are 3 10 MM bolts and a air deflector you need to pull out. Here is one of the 3 bolts you need to remove. One on Top and one on bottom you cannot miss these.

Using the existing threaded hole thread in the rubber mount for the CAI.

Now add the coupler to the Throttle body and connect the cold air intake.

Then connect breather tube and tighten clamps to throttle body.

Install MAF Sensor Carefully, Also you may need to pull the wires that the MAF is in off the battery box as you do not want to stretch the wires as it can cause a CEL.

Secure the Nut to the rubber mount. This will secure the CAI in place.

Connect your MAF and Re-Install your Bumper and you are good to go. As a side note depending on the CAI that you get may or may not have a place to mount the sensor we removed from the air box. As you can see here this CAI does not have a location for this so we ziptied it to the wire loom.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Tools Required:

Needle Nose Pliers

Philips Head Screw Driver

OEM PCV Valve Mazda Part # L3K9-13-890

5-7 Ft of 1/2″ ID Heater Hose

1-2 Ft of 5/8″ ID Heater Hose

1/2″ to 5/8″ Adaptor

8 Hose Clamps

Zip Ties

Tiny Hands (As quoted from SmokinAMD) “DEAD SERIOUS”

Difficulty: 8 / 10

Time Required: 40-80 Min

Install:

This install isn’t so much as hard as it is a PITA. This will require an additional PCV Vavle that you can get from Mazda for under $20 as well as hoses, adapters and clamps. I got all the required hardware from the GB that was run on the mazda3forums. This tutorial is going to be a little lax as there are many different mounting locations and many different catch cans. The things that do matter like locations and PCV valve I will cover. For those of you curious where I mounted mine was on the passenger side on the bolt that holds the bracket for the wire to the windshield washer fluid. There are also arguments that keeping the can lower then the valve so that gravity helps keep the gunk down. This seems reasonable to me but if mounted above the PCV level it may not work as efficiently.

This Hose is located in the middle of the engine and must be accessed from below. You must remove the skid plate and the hose is near the oil filter side straight up.

Getting to this hose is the hardest part of this, well 2nd hardest removing from the PCV is the hardest as you need to have TINY hands to move the clamp so you can remove the hose. Follow the pictures to understand how to do this. The metal side (Intake Manif. Side) will be from the OUTLET of the CC.

Once you get the rear clamp loose wiggle the hose free you can now see the Green PCV Valve. This will be your INLET to your CC. This will require the 5/8″ Hose.

Here is the Extra PCV Valve this is mounted to the Intake Manifold Side and MUST be pointed straight down to work properly.

Prepare the hose with the 5/8″ – 1/2″ adapter.

Connect the hose to the Green PCV Valve (Remember this hose leads to the INLET of your CC) and then connect the little stubby with the new PCV Valve to the intake. (Remember the hose to this leads to the OUTLET of your CC)

Because of all the different ways you can install this that is where the pictures stop. For those of you that have an Oil Catch Can with 5/8″ Inlet/Outlet you can use a piece of clear tubing with a 1/2″ ID 5/8″ OD and slip it on the Orange part of the valve and then slip the 5/8″ tube on top of it. Also if you use 5/8″ there will be no need for the 1/2″ tubing or the adapter you can just run 5/8″ throughout the whole system.

Here are the results of after 100 Miles or so before a Much needed oil change as well as 100% VTA without a StandBack to tune out the richness.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Tools Required:

Difficulty: 1 / 10

Time Required: 20 Min / 40 Min (First Timer)

75.6 MM Oil Filter Wrench (Mazda Part # AKS75140) OR 76 MM 14 Flute

17 MM Socket

10 MM Socket

6 MM Allen Key

Oil Drain Pan

Jack / Ramps

Small Flathead

Install:

This tutorial is pretty easy to tackle even for the novice. It may take a little longer for the first timer but this is very easy to do. Assuming you have jacked your car up using either a Jack or Ramps you will need to remove the skid plate. This is held on by 7x 10MM Bolts and 2 poppers. Use the 10 MM to remove the bolts and the small flathead to ge the poppers out.

Here is the oil filter cap and 17MM Drain Plug location. (I Have swapped mine to a “Sure Drain” for easy oil changes)

Remove the 17 MM at this point make sure to have something to catch the oil (e.g. Oil catch Pan)

Now remove the center plug in the oil filter this will drain some of the oil left in the filter. So when you remove it , it doesn’t come out everywhere just the hole.

Start to remove the oil filter cap. Unscrew SOME not all the way as the remaining oil will come out.

Once done draining remove the rest of the way.

Here is the new filter and O Rings. (Purolator Notice the Re-Enforcements in the center)

Remove old O Rings and install new ones. Then re install the plug in the bottom of the oil filter cap.

Add some oil to the filter as to pre oil it. Don’t add too much or it will over flow.

Use a cloth to clean the old oil from the filter housing and re install the filter. BE CAREFUL not to CROSS THREAD or OVER TIGHTEN as it is plastic!

At this point you should be done draining the oil into the pan. Replace the 17 MM Plug and re install your skid plate you are now done under the car.

Last step put in the recommended amount of Oil in your car Usually 4-6 Quarts Depending on NA (4.25Q) 5W-20 / Speed (5.7Q) 5W-30

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.