Well I went snowboarding this last weekend so not many updates. However this weekend I will be helping a local do his front springs and then do my Oil Catch Can. Expect that tutorial hopefully within the week. I have added a banner for the Grand AM Experience if you are any kind of Mazda enthusiast CHECK THIS OUT! You will NOT regret it. Check out their site and see if there is an event near you! Even if it is 100 MI+ away still go and check it out! I am still waiting on products from Mazda 3 Mods and Nextmod so still a lot of work to do. As well as regular maintenance such as changing your oil and upgrading your Trans. Fluids.

-Krystm

Tools Required:

8 MM Socket with Extensions

Torx 20

3 Jewelers Screw drivers (Small screwdriver)

Flat Head Screw Driver

Needle Nose Pliers

Grease

Difficulty: 4 / 10

Time Required: 30-60 Min

Install:

This install has a lot more prep work then most before you do the actual job. The actual job could only take 10-15 min or 30+ if you have trouble with the cup.

To start we need to remove all the surrounding plastics to get full access to the shifter. To do this start out by opening the center console and lifting out the cup holder piece.

Once this is out unscrew the knob of the shifter and remove the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter and boot.

NOTE: You will also need to remove the ash tray. I don’t have mine in as I have a gauge plate there. To remove use an 8 MM and remove the 2 bolts that hold it in place it will then come right out.

Once that piece is removed and ash tray is removed there are only 4 more bolts holding in the entire surround. They are all 8 MM there are 2 behind where the ash tray was and 2 in the bottom of the center console. BEFORE you attempt to remove the center piece you must disconnect the AUX wire from the harness under the ash tray (Sorry no Pic)

Once that is removed need to pop off the transmission cables. I found this to be very easy just use your needle nose pliers and pop them off as shown.

After the cables are disconnected and center console is removed take your Torx 20 and remove the screw that holds the metal surround.

Now its time for the hard part. As I was doing this alone unfortunately I could not get pictures but I can explain it pretty well. Looking at the picture below you will see the 3 tabs that lock the cup into place. 1 is upper left, 1 directly to the right and 1 in the bottom left. What needs to be done is pry back the clip and then insert the jewelers screwdriver so it doesn’t re latch. You can also use paperclips but the ones provided bent on me and did not work so well. Once all 3 are in lift up and out. You may need to rotate clockwise to get off the spring.

Once out the plastic cup just pulls off. Grease up and put the cup on the new shifter. Getting the shifter in is not to bad but you do need to make sure to get it in the hole for the selector plate. Also will need to use your pliers to get the spring over the shifter. Again working alone so no pictures but you will see it when you look at it. Once in pop the plastic space back into place.

Now all that you have left to do is pop the cables back on, re install the metal ring and re install your plastics.

And your Done!

Comparisons:

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

I would like to welcome TWM Performance to the sponsors list. If somehow you don’t know who they are, they are 1 of I think 2 companies that make short throw shifters for the Mazdaspeed 3. I have received a STS from them and will be getting a knob as well. The review for the STS is already done in the Review section. The tutorial I plan to have done today as the install was performed yesterday. It really is an amazing piece and I strongly suggest picking one up if you love to drive your car.

EDIT: Short throw Tutorial is Finished!

-Krystm

Product: TWM Mazdaspeed 3 Short Throw Shifter – Buy Here

What: Replaces the stock shifter with a shorter shifter.

Reason: Main reason that people will want to do this, is because this product will give you an instant reduced shifter throw of 30%. Along with that it takes out a lot of the slack that you get with the stock shifter and a more precise shift feel.

Install Guide: Short Throw Shifter Install Guide

Review:
First off I just want to Thank TWM Performance for the opportunity to review this product as it is something that I have wanted for a really long time. This product is hands down one of the single best things you can get to feel more “as one” with your car.

After install the throw becomes so much more precise. The throw is also noticeably shorter and the feel is like a whole new car. To some people it may feel a little bit “notchy” but I feel it is still very much worth it for the return in performance. The other thing that this shifter seems to accomplish is no more “missing 3rd”. Some people have stated with the stock shifter when shifting fast they would miss 3rd. When changing to this the problem seems to of disappeared. I personally have never really had this problem but one time but others are saying that it went away after switching to this.

The quality of this product is amazing, the machining and build are great. The fitment is perfect and the instructions they send are very detailed as well (so detailed you get free paperclips to install!). When installing there are only 2 things I would change about their install but other then that one of the best products you can get for your car. TWM’s customer service has been fast to reply to emails and shipping took 2 days!

Overall I would say anyone on the fence about this should get it! The feel makes the car more fun to drive (if that was even possible) and shifting feels much more confident with the slack being gone. The only thing that may be a downside to some people is the height difference and the stick being so close to the drink holders. For the difference you get I say if this is your only complaint use the cup holders on your doors!

Overall score: 9.5 / 10

Pros:
Reduced Throw (30%)
No Slack
More Precise Shifts
Great Customer Service
Super Fast Shipping

Cons:
Possibly to short for some with use of cup holders
Install may be a bit much for novices
Will need Own Grease for Install

Here are some pictures:

How it arrived packaged, Shrink wrapped to cardboard to ensure no movement or damage! (Note the Paperclips)

Comparison Shots:

Before:

After:

I am working on plans for upcoming tutorials. I will be gone on my normal weekend days this week so I will have 1 more tutorial done by Sat. This will be TWM STS install and review. Then the coming weeks will be a few more before the car show season starts.

Other then that not to much else is going on. I am also answering questions as they come in. Make sure to leave your email address so I can reply. I have had a few that I couldn’t respond to as there was no address. One last plug if you feel these guides help any donations would be greatly appreciated as will help pay hosting bills and if enough were to come in maybe even some tools for the garage.

-Krystm

Tools Needed:

17 MM / 19 MM Open Ended Wrench

10 MM Socket

18 MM Deep Well Socket

E8 Reverse Torx Socket – Can be bought individually @ advanced auto parts

Small Flat-Head Screwdriver

1 Zip Tie

Time Needed: 40 Min – 1 Hr

Difficulty: 3 / 10

Prerequisite: Turbo Inlet / Battery can be removed to make this easier.

Install:

This is a pretty easy install so don’t be intimidated by it. To start off you will need make sure to let your car sit for a while (Cold) so you can pull the fuel lines without spilling tons of fuel everywhere. Will also need to pull your intercooler cover off (if applicable). You can also pull a relay for the fuel pump but I found this to be unnecessary. I started by removing the fuel lines on the top. These are held on by plastic clips. A square neon yellow one and the other is held on by a blue clip. The yellow one needs to be completely removed to pull the fuel line off. The Blue one just has to be released enough to pull it off. To get them off I used a small screw driver and pulled the clips apart. Pictures below to show what the clips look like and how they attach.

Once you get the lines off you to make it easier I removed the 2 10 MM Bolts that hold the lines next to the fuel pump in. This will make it easier to get to the other parts of the pump. While you have your socket out removed the reverse torx bolts that hold the pump in place. There are 3 of them 2 on the top and one on the bottom. The one on the bottom is closer to the engine/passenger side.

Next you need to remove the feed line from the bottom of the pump. Put your zip tie under the bolt so it doesn’t get away after you release it. Then take your 17 MM and 19 MM wrenches and put the 17 on the inlet bolt that goes into the pump. The 19 goes on the main bolt loosen and let slide down. You can now remove the pump. Pull straight back and out.

Once out you will need to secure the pump in a vice of some kind. Then use your 18 MM deep well to remove the plunger you may need a breaker bar.

Once out you can push the plunger out through the bottom to remove.

You can see the difference in the holes of the pump as the new one is bigger.

Insert new rod and cylinder as shown. With the straight line cuts to the bottom.

Now take the 2 shim pieces and place in the lock. This will lock the top when the spring pushes the plunger up.

Once assembled place in gas and let sit for a few min. I shook mine around after a few min to make sure any contaminates were gone.

All that is left now is place the plunger back into the fuel pump body. Then re-install to the car. Once re-mounted re-connect your bottom fuel line first. Make sure that the 17 MM DOES NOT MOVE when Tightening the bolt at the bottom of the pump. Tighten with finger first as not to cross thread. Cut the zip tie, re connect the other 2 lines, Connect the electrical plug and your all set. Also don’t forget to replace the 2 10 MM bolts on the bracket that holds the wires.

Before starting your car. Hold the GAS TO THE FLOOR and attempt to start this will prevent the engine from starting but will re-pressurize the lines.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.