Well as promised I have put up the JDM Rain Guard install AND Sok07 sent me his newest product a bit early so I could install them and get a install guide up for him. So what that means for you, two tutorials instead of one! Hope you can use them!

-Krystm

Tools Needed:

Rubbing Alcohol and Paper Towel

Time Needed: 20 Min

Difficulty: 2 / 10

Install:
This install is VERY easy if you follow this or anyone else’s guide it is very simple. DO NOT Stick the rain guard on before putting in the metal brackets. below is a picture of the hardware you should have received with your rain guards. You should have 2 Long ones 2 Short ones and 6 Smaller ones. Then you will also get 10 Plugs.

Before we begin take the alcohol and towel and give the tops of the window frame a good cleaning for optimum stick when we peal off the backing. Starting with the front windows you will need 1 of each bracket.

When installing there is a little bend that goes between the rubber and the outside of the frame as you can see in the following pictures. It’s pretty easy to see how it’s done but I took plenty of pictures to help illustrate.

Once you have those two in place place the rain guard against the car so you can line up your holes. You will see a small lip on the front of the rain guard this is to mount it down by the mirror. Make sure the lip is behind the exterior plastic.

Then when you are sure your holes are lined up you can peel the backing away and stick the rain guard on.

The plugs are very simple but I did my best to take pictures all you have to do is put the rubber backing on the inside of the rain guard and push the pin though. You will hear it snap into place.
At this point you will also do the front bracket. As it is just a flat piece just slide it in between the rubber and when the holes line up put the plug in.

The process is the same for the rear but using two of the middle size brackets rather then one of each.

Peel

Plug

Finished Install Shots

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Sok07 sent me a set of these and the quality is as always AMAZING! Anyways you can pick yourself up a set of these over at the Mazda3Forums.com here is the link to buy. Buy your own set here.

On with the tutorial. This WILL require that you drill 2 holes for each pedal clutch and brake.

Tools Needed:

Drill w/2 bits. (A small starter bit and around a 7/32 for the final)

Philps Head Screwdriver

9 mm Socket / 9 mm Wrench

Install Time: 20ish Min. Allow 30-40 Taking your Time.

Difficulty:3.5 / 10

Install:
Before I start I would like to address a few things. # 1 drill the pedals is a pretty easy concept and as long as you double check your 2nd hole before you drill it you will have 0 problems. With that being said learn from my mistake. When you drill the BRAKE Pedal DO THE TOP Hole First! This will allow for easy line up and evenness of the bottom hole.

To start this we need to remove the current pedals. This is actually a very easy task. The stock pedals are held on with the rubber surround only. No glue or fasteners just the rubber surround. The easiest way to remove is pull from the bottom and peel your way up as shown below.

Now the easiest way to mark your holes (Sok’s Idea) is take a post-it note and a marker. Place it behind the pedal and mark the holes. Once done place the post-it on the pedal and drill.

Use your smaller bit to drill your “pilot hole” and only drill 1! Then test placement and make sure the holes match where you want then drill the 2nd hole.

Once you confirm your pedal placement and holes pull the sticky backing for permanent placement. You will need your 9 mm socket to hold the nut in place while you screw it in place. Be careful not to over tighten as you could break the screw. This is all you have to do! Repeat for the brake pedal BUT make sure you drill your top hole first!!!!! A dremel works well in the tight space for your pilot hole so if you have one use it!

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Well I finally got the transfer done there may be a few links here and there that are wrong. I will be looking into these tomorrow to fix them. Also will be posting the JDM rain guard install. Sorry for the inconvenience and its good to be back!

-Krystm

Just added the Wiper Removal Tutorial and I have the JDM Rain Guards coming so that should be up sometime next week! I have a few more ideas in the works as well coming!

Also remember to please support the garage if you like what you see by donating or simply by clicking the ads on the left! However, if donations come in though I will remove the ads making this an ad free site!

-Krystm

Tools Needed:

10 mm Socket

12 mm Socket

Flat-Head Screwdriver

Black Paint / Clear Paint

Difficulty: 3 / 10

Time Required: 15-20 Min

Common Sense: Paint the Plug BEFORE Doing Install. I will not be going over how to paint as everyone is different. Basics are Sand Prime Sand Paint Clear (maybe sand again if not happy) I just wiped clean with alcohol and Painted turned out great. However everyone is different.

Install: (Umm…Un-Install)
This is actually a lot easier then I thought it would be and the results turned out great! To start out need to do a bit of shopping first shouldn’t cost more then a few $. Go to Home Depot / Lowes and get a 1 1/8″ Metal Cap as shown here. Fit is Perfect it is very snug and flush. I doubt that it will leak but if worried you can get silicone sealant or use a rubber plug instead. Rubber Plug should be a 1″-1 1/4″ x 1″.

To start remove the outer plastic at the base and use your 12 mm socket to remove the nut. Once removed you can remove the wiper.

Next thing to do is remove the plastics to gain access to the wiper motor. The top piece pops right off no additional plugs need to be removed for this piece. Once removed then remove the plugs that hold the sides on. There should be 2 plugs for each side. 1 at the top and the 1 on the side that doubles as the rear shelf riser.

Once those are removed you need to remove the base plastic. It is held in place with 2 more plugs one in each top corner and then clips. It is also held in by the handle insert as well. This piece just pops out.

Once you pop that off you now have access to the wiper motor. To remove just undo the 3 10 mm bolts, then unplug the harness and pull out.

Once removed at this point you can take time to clean the window and around the hole that way nothing gets in after the plastic has been replaced. Once done then start to re-install the plastics.

Notice the sides have a guide / flap that go in first then put the plugs back into place.

Once all done all that is left is to put the plug into place. This was a test before it was painted.

Final Results:

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.