Just wanted to let everyone know I have 3 more tutorials coming later today. As well as another 1-2 coming in the next few days. So stay tuned and if you like what you see please help support the site by donating or at least clicking the ads. Thanks Alot!

-Krystm

Tools Required:

High Grit Sandpaper (I didn’t use but incase or if you feel you need to)

Rubbing Alcohol

VHT Night Shades

Clear Coat

Prerequisites:

None

Difficulty: 2 / 10

Time Required: 20 Min – 24 hrs to dry

Install:

This install I have to say turned out pretty damn good and its very easy to do. The first thing is removing the side markers. These come off very easy for the most part just get a good grip on them and “Slide” them towards the door. You will feel them give a bit. Once you feel it won’t go any further pull it away from the car starting with the side towards the door. The pictures make it easier so here ya go.

Once you have them removed I just rubbed them down with alcohol and painted. Some people will say to sand it down but it seemed to look like it came out nice with out doing that. I got the Night Shades at Summit Racing as I live close to there but you can get different types of the same thing at Hobby Shops. I don’t think Auto Zone or Advanced would have it but you could check. I reseached a lot and this seemed to be the best out there. And of course eBay.

Now I didn’t want to remove my bumper but after seeing the results I may be inclined to do so. However you can remove these ones in the back without removing the bumper. On the biggest end (the flat edge closest to the rear doors) there is a plastic clip. You just push these in and they will pop out. Be careful though as they are rigid but not very flexible so they can break easily. Once removed clean and paint.

Once you put a good 2-3-5 coats on and clear coat wait to dry. Once dry time to re-install. The hook up the side markers then stick the edge in first and push in, this is the same in the back.

Here are some finished shots I didn’t get one with the blinker on I may still add that one. I think they came out great.

With Flash:

Without Flash:

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing things incorrectly these are only guides. However if you follow these guides and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guides.

Note: I already had these installed but decided I wanted to re mount them so the pictures really are of me disassembling them to fix and reassemble.

Tools Required:

Philips Screwdriver

Tube of Clear Silicone Sealant

Various Wire Cutters / Strippers

Electrical Tape

Difficulty: 9.2 / 10

Time Required: 1-2 Hours Per Light (Mostly Drying Time)

Prerequisites:

Bumper Removal

Headlight Removal

Headlight Disassembly

Install:

Once you get done with all the prerequisites we are ready to begin. The first step will be to remove the black housing that is mounted to the clear part of the headlight. This will require a philips screwdriver.

Once you have that removed you will need to pop out the chrome rings. The easiest way to do this is if you look at the back of them you will see 2 tabs that hold them in. Push them in and it will pop right out.

Once you have removed the chrome rings you are ready for Silicone. You want to put a small bead in the sections where the ring will be sitting. On the small ones you will do almost the whole thing and the bigger ones just around the rounded part.

I broke the ring removing the angel eye from the glue so I had to ziptie to hold its form. You generally wouldn’t break it popping it out of the black cover.

Here is the long and boring part. Once you have the rings in the silicone put some kind of weight on it and then wait.

While you wait I took the time to notch the black cover so the wires had somewhere to go. I would suggest this to anyone doing this as it makes it so much easier and doesn’t pinch any wires. Also when doing the high beam side check where the wires are first before notching any as I have an extra notch now.

After at LEAST an Hour of letting the silicone set you can start to reassemble. See how the notches allow a place for the wires to go? Make sure to clean everything with alcohol (be careful of this as it can remove the chrome from the rings) and place the black piece back in and screw everything back together.

Now at this point you can do this 1 of 2 ways, A: Drill a hole behind the High Beam for the wires of the eyes. or B: run the wires though the low beam area and come out there. I drilled a hole as I felt it gave the most give on the wires. If you look at the back you will see a round flat area you can drill into. Just make sure to take it slow so you don’t mess anything up.

Once you run the wires though and make sure everything is the way you want it you are ready to reassemble. When pushing the 2 pieces together make sure that the wires are out the the way and not in between the high beam gap or pinched by the low beam. Once you have it as much as you can re-bake for 10 min and finish putting the headlight back together.

As far as mounting the ballast I mounted this one under the light as well. Just clean up real nice with some alcohol and some good sticky 3M tape and you should be set. All that is left is wiring.

Wiring is fairly strait forward. Red is Positive (+) and Black is Negative (-). Just find a power source and hook them up. There are many different ways to install these and I will show you mine but you can even put a switch on them to have total control of them.

The easiest and the way I chose to do it will keep the rings on whenever the car is on. In the picture below you can see that I ran a fused wire out of the box. There is an empty socket you can plug into and then I chose to ground them both on the sidewall down by the intake.

Before finalizing wires by soldering and heat shrinking and of course mounting headlights you need to test them to make sure they still work. Once you confirm your tests solder up and shrink tube the wiring, reconnect all your lights and reinstall your bumper.

After a long day of modding you can then sit back and enjoy your new installs.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing this incorrectly this is only a guide. However if you follow this guide and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guide.

Tools Needed:

Philips Screwdriver

10 mm Socket / Wrench

Oven big enough for headlight w/timer.

Difficulty: 8.5/10

Time Required: 1 Hour (For Disassembly Only)

Prerequisites:

Bumper Removal

Headlight Removal

You may see this method and ask why anyone would want to do this to their headlight. The anwser will actually net you a few reasons. For mine, I covered them all and they were to Remove the Orange Reflector, Angel Eye Install and so I could drill holes to help mount my ballasts.

Install:

Preheat Oven to 200 Degrees.

Then start by removing the plastic mounts used to mount the head light to the car. This will require the philips for 1 screw on the bottom and the 10 mm to take the top of the inside (towards the center of the car) part of the mount.

Remove the Outer Rubber Ring of the low beam bulb.

Take out the low beam bulb.

Remove the plastic top part of the mount (2x 10 mm Bolts) and the bottom bar with a philips screwdriver.

This is to show the little tab you need to push into release the other end of the bracket. Once done we are now ready to Bake the headlight.

MMMMMM….. Headlight, It’s what’s for Dinner. (200 Degrees for 15 Min)

After 15 min is up take out the headlight, get some gloves (mechanics gloves are great for this) and start by pulling the headlight apart from the corner. You may need a flat head screwdriver to get the clear cover away from the tabs.

That is all there really is to it, just bake and pull apart. As far as reassembling get it back together as much as you can and then put it back in the oven for 10 min instead of 15 and push it together. I don’t see a need to use extra silicone to reseal it, however if you do end up with moisture in the lights you may need to check your seals. However if you drill extra holes in the housing from say “Angel Eyes” or for mounting the moisture will dissappear within a few hours of being out of direct sunlight. At least it has in my experience.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing this incorrectly this is only a guide. However if you follow this guide and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guide.

So I finally got around to working on my car this past weekend and took a ton of pics and started writing the tutorials as promised. They are still work in progress and not all of them will be done right away but common ones are already posted. Keep on checking as they will be getting updated throughout all of the next few weeks.

Note: You can also do this install without removing the bumper and headlights. If you do that you will have to mount your ballasts in other locations. I will not be going over those options as that is how I first did mine. Many have stated removing the headlights made this install much much easier and saved many headaches.

Tools Required:

Philips Screwdriver

Small Drill (Mounting Ballast and Only if you do it my way)

Zip Ties

Rubbing Alcohol

Difficulty: 6/10

Time Required: 1-4 Hours

Prerequisites:

Bumper Removal

Headlight Removal

Learn about your H.I.D. Lights:

Q: “My bulbs came in a Clear Plastic Cylinder do I need this?”

A: No in fact you actually have to break the lower ring off. Be sure to be careful as the bulb is fragile.

Q: “Does HID Ballasts use more power? Will it hurt my car?”

A: Unlike High Power halogens 90/100 Watt which ARE Dangerous (I learned that first hand) HID Ballasts actually use LESS power to run your lights. Kits typically come in 35 Watt and 55 Watt Kits.

Q: “What is Temperature and will it Melt my Headlights?”

A: Temperature is the color of the bulb you can find this information across the internet. Most popular is etheir 5000k or 6000k. The lower the number the less usable light there is as the temp goes up so does the out put but after a certain point 7-8000 I think the light becomes less usable as well. Typical Kits are 3000K (Yellow for Fogs) 5000k (Super White Almost Pure White) 6000k (Close to white with some Blue Tint)

Q: Are HID’s Illegal if my car didn’t come with them?

A: Yes, however our cars are designed with projectors which is what is required (For the most part) to keep HIDs from blinding people. So as long as you stay between 4000-6000k you should have no problems at all.

Q: “What is this “Spacer” I keep hearing about?

A: This is used to keep the bulb tightly in place as the depth behind the bulb would not be enough to hold it tightly.


Install:

BEFORE THE BULB GOES IN THE HEADLIGHT USE THE ALCOHOL TO CLEAN THE BULB GENTLY.

Once you have removed the headlights the install is pretty strait forward. In this picture the hole to be concerned with is the center. If you look at your bulb and look in the hole you will see a flat spot then a space. Line up the notch between those bars and make sure the spacer is pushed all the way to the base.

Once you have that in there close the metal clip and make sure it is tight.

There should be a rubber dish that is already on the wires push that all the way to the base and then put the rubber surround back on the headlight.

Now that this is done we need to mount the ballasts. To put the zip ties on like I did will require opening the headlights. You do not have to have the zip tie there but because I was redoing my “Angel Eyes” at the time I did that as well. Depending on the car and manufacture date you may have a flat bottom or one with a triangle.

Basically as shown in the picture get some heavy duty sticky tape, clean the area with alcohol and stick it to the bottom of the light. DDM Thin Ballasts work best but the regular size ones will fit (Barely) on the passenger side.

Once you have this mounted the rest is easy. Wiring is very simple you should have cable that has flat plates on the end and they should be red and black respectively. The black should go into the harness that has the black and silver wire and the Red into the orange and silver. Get them in and tape them up nicely to protect them.

After you have your wires setup all that is left is to place the headlights in place, hook them up which all that requires is plugging in the wire you just installed in to the HID Ballast and test. If they come on you should be good to re-install your headlight housings. Here is a pic of the drivers side once installed.

Krystm’s Garage and it’s affiliates are not responsible for any damage or problems that may come from doing this incorrectly this is only a guide. However if you follow this guide and are careful there should be no problems. Just take your time and follow the guide.